Rose Otto v Rose Absolute
This was a tricky decision for me! Having used Rose Bulgaria Absolute Oil in my balms for years, I suddenly decided to switch to Rose Otto Oil but why the change? And was this the right choice? Is there really a difference between one rose essential oil and another?
HISTORY
Roses, known as the Queen of Flowers, have a long history, and have always been a firm favourite of mine, just breathing in the smell of rose (as pictured doing just that this weekend!) - their deep, rich floral aroma can strengthen the heart and soothe any emotional discord.
Roses have been around for millions of years, according to fossils collected in Central Asia and have come a long way. Roses were believed to have been used as early as 3000BC in China in the making of rosewater and perfumery, also the Ancient Egyptians, as healing balms and to protect their skin. They are still highly sought after, with 75% being in perfumes today. The largest region of cultivation is in Turkey and Bulgaria.
PROPERTIES
Both the oils I am writing about have the INCI name, Rosa Damascena Flower Oil. The Damask rose is an ancient rose, ranging from pink to light red rose flowers. Interestingly the properties of both oils are the same:
Benefits of Rose Otto and Rose Absolute Oils
Deep, rich scent
Excellent for the nervous system, calming, soothing for grief or heart pain, physical or emotional heart pain
Moisturises, hydrates and soothes inflamed, sore skin
Particularly beneficial for mature skin or dehydrated skin
A study in 2017 even shows rose oil to increase salivary Oestrogen in peri-menopausal women, reducing anxiety, irritability and depression. So really good for menopausal symptoms.
Another study in 2013 showed when Rose was inhaled by post-operative children suffering discomfort, their levels of pain were greatly reduced thus showing how rose can help reduce physical and emotional pain.
Packed full of vitamins A and C, reducing the appearance of wrinkles and age spots
Anti-viral so can help boost immune system and keep off a cold
It’s a tender essential oil, gently soothing - a good idea is to put some in a diffuser for emotional support on those wobbly days, whether hormonal related, like PMS or just to stabilise your emotions.
DIFFERENCES
In rose oil production, there are various statistics about the amount of rose flowers used, but just to give you an idea, it can take 2-4000 kg of rose petals to produce 1 kg of rose oil. it can take up to 2000 petals for just 1 drop of this precious essential oil. There are different ways the oil can be extracted from the petals which is the difference between Rose Absolute and Rose Otto.
Rose Absolute can often smell more like the original rose, with a richer aroma because the plant material hasn’t been exposed to heat, the extraction process is different to that of Rose Otto as it is made via solvent extraction. Technically, this means it isn’t an essential oil, hence why the name is ‘absolute’. Roses are delicate flowers and this extraction method can keep the petals more intact, keeping in the aroma. The rose petals are submerged in a solvent such as ethanol or hexane. Once this mixture dissolves the aromatic compounds in the petals, the solvent is then removed and the oil remains. However, there are traces of the chemical residue left within the oil.
Rose Otto often has a slighter more gentle aroma as it is steam distilled so the petals are exposed to heat which can remove some of the scent. As Rose Otto oil is extracted using steam, it is therefore classed as an essential oil, although may take a greater yield of rose flowers. Steam distillation involves water, heat and patience. The steam breaks down the aromatic compounds and the steam is collected, it is then separated into water and oil, the oil makes Rose Otto Essential Oil. Interestingly Rose Otto oil can slightly solidify at room temperature due to the waxes in the plant, I just warm the bottle up in my hands before using.
PERSONAL CHOICES
So really the choice for me, is Rose Otto Essential Oil, purely based on the fact that I make a dry skin balm which is often used by people with sensitive skin or skin conditions such as eczema. Thus having even minute traces of a chemical solvent added to an ingredient in my natural product makes me wonder if I can still claim it to be 100% natural and whether it would have an impact on our gentler skin types?
I have not noticed the mildly different aroma of Rose Otto in comparison to Rose Absolute in my balms but I only use a small amount. Unfortunately, the cost of this precious oil is three times the price, which I have absorbed mostly into my own margins as I really try hard to keep my prices down. Whatever your skincare routine, including the majestic Rose Damascena into your life can make your skin glow, your heart warm and stabilise emotions.
Notes
If you wish to use rose oil for topical use, please always dilute with a carrier oil as rose in high concentration can cause skin irritation.